![]() ![]() We’ll do that by adding a few strips of bubinga to each side. The rails need to be brought up to a full 3″ thick. If you want more information on the wood-tapping process, check out Episode 167 – Tapping Threads in Wood. The rails will receive the same nut access holes they did on the headboard side and a piece of threaded rod will be used to make the connection. Because the footboard is so thick, I decided to use a tap to create threaded holes. The Footboard Hardwareįor the footboard side of the rails, the hardware is going to be a little different. #Two side rails for bed bolts installThis hole gives us plenty of room to install a washer and a nut. So in order to have access to the bolt, we need to drill a flat-bottomed hole with a forstner bit. The bolts aren’t very helpful we we don’t have a way to tighten them down. Both bolts have some lateral movement for expansion and contraction. The drill bit only goes so far but makes a deep enough hole in the tenon that it’s easy enough to extend the hole to full depth after disassembly. I start by drilling through the back of the mortise and into the tenon itself. The rails are held in the headboard mortise with carriage bolts. So even if you go one pass too far, the joint still fits reasonably well. Each pass removes only a few thousandths of an inch worth of material. The great thing about using hand tools to fine-tune the fit is the fact that they give you so much control. I actually had to sacrifice my regular cross-cut sled for this task, but it’s just as well since I needed a dedicated dado sled anyway.Īfter a test fit, the tenons were finessed with a rabbeting block plane. ![]() The tenons are cut at the tablesaw using a cross-cut sled and a dado stack. But we need to start with standard 8/4 (1 3/4″) stock first. The massive bed rails are 82 1/2″ long, 6″ wide, and 3″ thick. ![]()
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